brittany expert

New Year

2012-01-13T09:37:00.005+01:00

Happy New Year to all - a bit belated as I've had a busy start to 2012 with guided tours and two book deadlines looming. Footprint are issuing a short version of the Brittany guide I did for them in 2009 in their Focus series this spring, so a lot of updating and re-presenting of text to get through before the end of the month. And although an end of March deadline for the Legends book seemed a long way off over Xmas leisure time, it's all getting a bit close now, and little progress has been made recently on that front. I've spent a lot of time designing new French business brochures and an English one for potential tour work this summer.

Otherwise, no resolutions, just new interests and habits. This month I've started Pilates, read a book on astronomy and begun studying abstract art. How stimulating to think about something completely different from my daily fairly predictable working world!

Still keen to work on a project for an extension of the Cornish Saints Way walking trail in Brittany. It would work very well with ferries into Roscoff providing the starting point, and a coastal walk around to Brest or down to Morlaix - two places connected by TGV, makes good practical sense. The footpath is already there in the famous GR34 coastal route and there are lots of links with the arrival places and chapels of British saints - including the cathedral at St-Pol-de-Léon (pictured above) along the way. This is a good idea that deserves support - let's wait and see ...

Death and the Devil

2011-11-30T14:50:00.005+01:00

Still struggling with physical movement, but working 'normally' on new book The Legends of Brittany. This is organised thematically with chapters on saints, Dark Age semi-historical tales, Arthurian stories, women in legend, landscape, giants and dwarves, megaliths, etc.

Currently researching death and the devil, which, in Brittany, means an amusing combination. Both Ankou (Grim Reaper) and the Devil (Red Man) are almost appealing figures until the Church sticks its oar in, puts the fear of God into life and demonises the poor old devil. The fact he's clearly working hard to punish sinners surely makes him one of the good guys?

I particularly like this photo of the Devil from the calvaire at Plougonven. It's traditional to represent the scene of the Devil tempting Jesus in statuary on this type of monument, but conventionally he wears the concealing robes of a monk - cloven hooves, claws or horns just poking out to give the game away. Here the Devil seems to be dressed as a 17th century rector, thus contemporary with the time of erection. Was there by any chance a falling out between the priest and the sculptor? Hope so.

Thanks for good wishes

2011-11-01T19:07:00.004+01:00

OK, I'm back. Bloodied and bowed, but back. Many thanks for all the emails, and comments here (Ancestral Celt and Michael Dodds). I was confined to the house all summer, and after three months still have walking/driving problems. I have also been unable to work, so under severe financial constraints. Had to cancel my first holiday in seven years - a few days on Belle-Ile - and lost the money I'd paid: don't know which of those two facts was harder to bear!

Sadly had to scrap the Brittany islands book I had signed up to do, but have begun work on The Legends of Brittany, which will be published next year some time. I am also going to add themed walks to the Brittany Expert site - individual routes with all the background, maps, etc. for sale very cheaply in PDF form.

What I really want to do is set up a continuation of the Cornish Saints' Way in Brittany. It's a great project, and themed distance walks are more and more popular, but will anyone in Brittany tourism be the least bit interested? I very much doubt it. Last time I contacted the Finistere Departmental Tourism board about a project they refused me a meeting. The Quimper CCI haven't even bothered to reply to a request to discuss my training course for tourist professionals who want to promote Brittany to anglophones.

Let's face it, I have nothing to offer, because they are doing it all so well already. NOT.

Apologies

2011-09-26T13:53:00.003+02:00

WM has been unable to work this summer due to serious illness, hence silence on this blog. She sends thanks to all who have enquired and emailed good wishes, and will resume writing asap. The scheduled book on Brittany's Islands for 2012 has had to be cancelled.

Breton Chant

2011-07-18T18:13:00.009+02:00

I went to a concert of chant at one of my favourite places in Brittany, the Abbaye du Relec, on Saturday evening. It's an approriate setting for the genre, being a Cistercian foundation dating back to 1132. The church is austere and authentic, from the extensive damp patches of green mould to uncomfortable seating and lack of heating.
As is common in Brittany, there is no programme. One of the performers gives a short introduction here and there, but unless you are sitting near the front it's impossible to hear, as there are no microphones, so there is no immediate trigger as to context or subject matter. I also can't see anything in the first half, because the man singing the Breton chants is short and his guitarist is seated.
These things enhance the experience. All I am aware of is the music, the lone male voice echoing round the high nave, mimicked by the flight of a trapped bird swooping and soaring in the chancel behind him. The purity and simplicity of the timbre match the architecture even if God is not the musical inspiration. For one song he is joined by another man and the combination is electrifying, a familiar patterning from the traditional kan ha diskan (call and counter-call) of fest-noz music for dancing. My heart beats fast with extraordinary pleasure.

The second half begins with a female group from the Balkans, three tall, one short, all clad in costume and projecting powerful voices as they process down the nave smiling at members of the audience. On the stage they move and make dramatic gestures and facial movements, touching each other affectionately as they weave physical shapes to the rhythm of the songs. They are good, but for me the spell is completely broken. This is performance, knowing and calculated, where the first half was nothing but music.

Brittany Expert Guides

2011-07-09T19:44:00.004+02:00

New town guides to Rennes and Quimper are now available from my Brittany Expert site (link opposite). Everything you need to prepare for a visit or just admire the wonders Brittany has to offer - lavishly illustrated and with a town centre map.

Saint Anne of Brittany

2011-06-18T15:36:00.013+02:00

There is a strong tradition that Saint Anne, mother of the Virgin Mary, was a native of the Armorican peninsula (before Brittany existed), coming from the area of Plonévez-Porzay in the Bay of Douarnenez. The famous folklorist Anatole Le Braz (b.1859) recorded the legend that she left the region as a widow and travelled to Judaea. There she married Joachim, father of Mary, but later returned to her native land, where a lesser story suggests Jesus and Peter came to visit.

In Christian tradition Anne is a minor figure of the Apocrypha. Her iconography in religious art shows a tall woman with veiled head, often teaching her young daughter Mary to read. In church of Lampaul-Guimiliau, a notable Parish Close in northern Finistere, an extraordinary decorative altar panel shows Anne resting in bed having just given birth to Mary, who is being washed by the midwife.

There may be a connection between Anne and the Celtic goddess Ana, and indeed she is honoured at the church of Commana by a magnificent 18th century baroque altarpiece. Here a statue of Anne is said to have been found in a stone trough, part of the same linguistic confusion that led to stories of saints arriving on Breton shores in stone boats, as in old Breton 'koum' is both a valley and a stone trough (and the Latin for little boat is 'cumba'). One glance at the local landscape gives the game away.

Anne is the female patron goddess of Brittany and widely venerated at shrines such as Ste-Anne d'Auray, the largest Catholic site in the region, honoured by a papal visit in the 1990s. It is documented how in 1623 a local peasant had a vision of the saint telling him where to dig up her staute and rebuild a former chapel. The bishop of Vannes believed the story and the shrine was constructed.

The photos all show images from Ste-Anne La Palud (Anne of the Marshes) on the Finistere coast where she is said to have landed on return from the Holy Land.

My new book

2011-05-23T21:29:00.007+02:00

The Shape of Mist/Lambeaux de Brume is a short collection of stories and a couple of poems. The subtitle is Tales of the Monts d'Arrée: I've given a new take (decidedly décale) on traditional legends and added a few new ones of my own invention, such as Black Dog Blues and Korrigans in Crisis. The book is a dual language edition, with French translation by my favourite collaborator, Yves Marhic, whose sensitivity to language and nuance is remarkable.

Max Jacob

2011-04-30T10:51:00.002+02:00

Max Jacob, born Quimper 1876, died at Drancy 1944. Poet, artist, human being.

For every act of crossing
There is a price -
From an obol to human sacrifice.
Simplicity or artifice:
Portrayed by harlequins,
Betrayed by holding on.

Paying what was owed,
Measured by a gold star,
In swoops from perch to perch
Uncertain hands grasping for the cold bar.
Above a dance of prayer
Performed by peasants
Along blurred lines.

To miss the net and fall like that,
Max Jacob, acrobat.

At last - Brittany E-books!

2011-04-17T16:15:00.003+02:00

After a great deal of hard work, not least by the webmaster, my remarkable value Brittany E-books are now available on www.brittanyexpert.com These cover specifc topics or places in Brittany in depth, with lots of photos and suggestions for visits. Currently on offer are Megaliths, the Nantes-Brest Canal, Food and Drink, Walking in Brittany, History Essentials and Parish Closes. Those to come shortly include Rennes and Quimper town guides and the Monts d'Arrée. Many others planned. You can buy via PayPal without a Paypal account, cost £2.50 or 3€. All books are well-illustrated.

To get the flavour, download the FREE E-book Brittany Basics directly from the site. This gives a general overview of what Brittany has to offer. It can be used freely as a marketing tool by businesses and B&Bs. Links enable clients to buy specific topic books later. Comments and suggestions for future titles welcome. Please send the link to anyone you think might be interested: www.brittanyexpert.com

Another side of Rennes

2011-04-15T18:55:00.008+02:00

I was in Rennes this week to give a guided tour. We covered the usual things - 19th century Italianate cathedral, medieval quarter, neo-classical public buildings and the famous Parliament building. All good, and remarkably quiet on the streets with the 60,000 students on vacation. In my own time I did a lot of walking to look at more modern aspects of Rennes' most interesting architectural range. Not nearly enough emphasis nor information is provided for tourists about this. I was just wondering how they managed to clean the windows at the Cité Judiciaire when the answer appeared rather startlingly. The Champs Libres is the 2006 cultural complex containing the library (glass), science museum (dome of planetarium) and ultra-modern Musée de Bretagne.

Best Brittany Experiences - Megaliths

2011-03-02T12:12:00.006+01:00

To get the best out of any place, don't just do obvious things. If you're into megaliths, visit Carnac by all means, but for a sharper experience go to St-Just (top photo) afterwards, and then press on to Monteneuf to see how things were done in neolithic tmes. Take a boat to see the famous carvings on the Gavrinis tomb, but then examine other designs by stooping along the passage and squeezing into the chamber of the Pierres Plates (pictured above) on the Locmariaquer peninsula, or visiting the trio of graves at Mané Kerioned. These are all low-profile sites that give you a real sense of feeling - beyond mere looking. Worth a try?

Megalithic mania

2011-02-17T15:50:00.008+01:00

The late 19th century megalithomania may be making a comeback. Last night on History of Ancient Britain, Neil Oliver announced, with evidence getting in the way rather less than his hair in windy Brittany, that the Carnac alignments were the work of Mesolithic hunters, who apparently needed to make some kind of inarticulate and yet highy meaningful statement about identity in the face of the new world of the neolithic hunky farmer type.
A rather vague Scandanavian academic from Nantes University accompanied Neil into the Table des Marchands (at Locmariaquer - quite a different site incidentally, which was not explained). I'm totally mystified why they were stooping low and then pressing themselves up against the chamber wall with torches inches from the rock carving when in fact the tomb is large, airy and lit by electricity these days. The decorative hook or crook shapes were pronounced to be mesolithic images and directly compared with a neolithic axe motif above. WTF???
All I can say is thanks Neil, for revealing this startling new perception for us wild backwoodsmen of the Armorican peninsula who have foolishly fallen into the trap of neolithic marketing spin and gone along with all that presumably fake radio-carbon dating and comparative site analysis. Thank goodness the veil of truth has been drawn back - and on a popular TV programme to boot. There's clever, as my father would have said.

New World

2011-02-06T21:16:00.006+01:00

Started my customary Sunday circuit round Mont St-Michel in the Monts d'Arrée today only to be confronted almost at once by a convoy of 4-track vehicles driving across the moor and then right up onto the chapel hill via a narrow walkers' path, flattening plants as they went. Very depressing sight in a regional park where vehicles are strictly forbidden, but the Parc Armorique seem to do nothing to prevent it. Decided to get right off the usual tracks to avoid the noise, smell and intrusion of ignorant motorists, and was rewarded by the discovery of a new world with a mysterious subterranean lake. On another track on the way back up to the parking area, had to get out of the way of five very loud motorised ATVs .... could the Monts d'Arrée be losing its raw charm? And why does no-one do anything about it?

The unacceptable face of Brittany tourism

2011-01-29T22:30:00.008+01:00

Moncontour gets 0 stars from me for its tourist service. Clearly stated on their website that the office would be open Thursday 27 January, morning only, 10-12. I planned my day accordingly: it's a very long drive for me, so left early. On arrival, I found the same information graphically displayed on the actual door of the office. However, office closed. No explanation. What an appalling service!

The mairie expressed surprise that the TO office was open in winter at all: Moncontour is a very small place - is there no communication between these two vital sources of visitor information?

I was there to plan a group visit - bit of a joke, when they obviously don't care very much about visitors.

Luckily there are plenty of other places with a better attitude. I shall be awarding stars to all from now on.

Walking up a story

2011-01-04T16:02:00.005+01:00

I only went out for a short walk to give the dog a run today and came back with a complete new story for my collection of legends and poems of the Monts d'Arrée, out in May. Korrigans in Crisis is an unusual tale of marketing, political correctness and goblins. With apologies to Monty Python and Father Ted.

New website

2010-12-30T20:17:00.004+01:00

My newly revamped personal website is now up at http://www.wendymewes.com/ This is in addition to my business site http://www.brittanyheritageservices.com/ and http://www.brittanywalks.com/

And - what joy - you can now follow me on Twitter - see @brittanyexpert.

Happy 2011 one and all.

To all those who ask why I like living in Brittany

2010-12-24T19:00:00.006+01:00

On December 23rd I went shopping in Quimper, capital of Finistere. I came off the motorway (very little traffic), drove straight into the city centre, parked in a half-empty multi-storey car-park by the river, and walked through the precinct of the beautiful Gothic cathedral to a multitude of interesting shops in stunning medieval buildings. No-one has better presented shops than the French and Brittany is no exception. But here the lack of frenzied buying and spending means you can actually browse at leisure. The streets are quiet, the only 'crowd' is a cluster of spectators for the ice-rink erected in the the cathedral square. The indoor market with its extensive food stalls is busy, but in a laid-back kind of way: no-one hurries to serve or be served. There is plenty of time and plenty of room. I stroll back to the car with my purchases - beautifully gift-wrapped at no charge in each shop - after a coffee in my favourite Café des Arts on the quay. In three minutes I'm through the one-way system and on the motorway again, relaxed and happy after an enjoyable morning.
London it isn't. Quality of life, it is.

Valley of the Saints

2010-09-05T12:08:00.010+02:00

The Valley of the Saints project is to place up to 1000 statues of Breton saints, carved by contemporary sculptors, in a rural location of Cotes d'Armor. The more I thought about this, the more bizarre an idea it seemed, and after finally managing a visit last month, I still came away wondering what on earth it's all about. The concept may not immediately scream 'theme park', but in essence that's what it seems to be. How sticking a bunch of stylised lumps of granite all over a beautiful natural landscape contributes to Breton heritage is hard to envisage. Is it even art? Where is the authenticity of experience that is the essence of cultural tradition?

Work is very much in progress, with only about half-a-dozen statues in place, and a workshop area for honing further examples. I was told I couldn't go up to the site (the title Valley of the Saints had not prepared me for their current location on the top of a hill) because tractors were working, putting a statue in place. When I pointed out that the world and his wife and all his dogs were processing ahead of me up the track, I got a resigned shrug. It's clearly difficult to keep control over the instincts of man even in this place of holy figures.

Except it isn't, of course, a holy place and never will have the atmosphere and context that understanding of the particularities of Breton saints requires. The placing seems random and the selection includes historical figures like St Yves and mythical founders. The language of faith that is religious iconography should help in identification as they are not (yet) all named - only if you happen to know all those symbols in the first place.

What sort of literature will be produced to explain a mass demonstration of religious figures from 15 centuries, originating from different countries and holding distinctively different places in the complex tapestry of Breton religious development? How will visitors be able to distinguish between history and legend? Will the final presentation rate story-telling above significance? Will this become a substitute for visiting Brittany's unparalleled variety and richesse of churches, chapels and cathedrals? Like a mini Tro Breizh pilgrimage around the tomb of a 20th century bishop in Quimper cathedral, instead of the 600km walk of the real thing?

It will presumably answer the basic question who, but what about where and why and how? How can context be created for this glum parade? In the end this could be dumbing down on a colossal scale. I sincerely hope it will develop into something more. I'm sure the coach parties will roll in regardless.

Tour for cruisers

2010-07-10T13:39:00.007+02:00

Yesterday I did my first stint as a guide for cruiseship passengers - in this case meeting the Swan Hellenic ship Minerva at Brest and going by coach to Quimper for a city tour. Time was fairly short but it was a real pleasure to meet so many nice people who were much interested in the history and culture of Brittany. That's the kind of working day that makes you think it's all worth while.
Also good to meet up with more French guides and realise once again that I am not alone in failing to bend the deaf ears of tourist organisations concerning worthwhile projects for a positive future of tourism in Brittany. Trouble is, they're the ones who get all the money.

French (football) farce

2010-07-04T10:21:00.004+02:00

Now that we only have decent (in all senses) teams left in the World Cup, should anyone spare a thought for the sordid antics of our French representatives? Today Maverick Malouda shoots his mouth off - considerably better than he does at goal - and Thuram (rightly) calls for Evra to be banned from the national team. The government huffs and postures, ready for a monumental punch-up with FIFA (another bunch of *******) - but does no-one see the obvious parallel between sport and society? Four years ago France had a great team. Now let's see, what has changed so radically in France in the last four years? Duh......

Out at last!

2010-06-13T09:48:00.003+02:00

My Footprint guide to Brittany is finally out. I've got a connected article in the Independent on June 19th.

Update

2010-06-05T12:32:00.005+02:00

Just back from taking a small group on a coastal walking holiday, enjoying the fabulous north Finistere coast. This was a welcome break in the midst of an intensive period of work, culminating in the amusing highlight of being among the Parc Armorique competition winners with my legend Yann ar Yeun and the Grey Lord, (well translated from my original by Yves Marhic), about the disappearance of the nuclear power station in the Monts d'Arrée. There's to be a press conference next week and my story will be performed at an event on Sunday in the lakeside setting of the power station, when prizes will be awarded. The odd thing is that no-one has mentioned what the prizes are.

My Footprint guide to Brittany is now out - I received my copies today. The article I've written related to the book will appear in the Independent newspaper on June 19th.

I've had some interesting translation tasks lately. The new exhibition at the Abbaye de Daoulas is on Aboriginal and Inuit art - marginalised autochtone peoples being close to Breton hearts - and I was asked to do the English version notes. There has also been a project at the Abbaye du Relec for their new exhibition, with interviews of locals and French in-comers to be available in audio form - and also in English. This has involved transcribing French interview tapes, and creatively translating an English version that sounds good. The second recording session is on Monday. I do love radio-type work and look forward to recording more episodes of my History of Brittany later this month.

Nuclear power becomes legendary

2010-04-23T11:23:00.005+02:00

Interesting idea - a writing competition to create a legend explaining the dismantling of France's first nuclear power station (in the distance in photo) which lies in the heart of my beloved Monts d'Arrée, now a regional park. This is an area of wild, rugged landscape oozing legend and mystery from every pore of its vast peat-bog, and containg the entrance to the celtic underworld in the Yeun Ellez. The nuclear plant has been out of action for a generation, undergoing the long, slow process of dismantlement. I am working on my entry for this challenge, which must include the creation of mythological characters and relate to the existing fabric of legend and tradition. This is truly a task for the elementary spirits to show their stuff.

Lights in the darkness

2010-03-18T11:57:00.003+01:00

By chance two separate people, one man and one woman, have spoken to me this week with warm affection and enthusiasm for my two novels, Moon Garden and The Five of Cups. What a pleasure it is to realise what a hold the characters and situations have taken on individual imaginations. In fact over the years I've had numerous messages from all over the world about the strong impact on readers. What is also remarkable is that both novels, unmarketed and out of the mainstream genres, have made a profit, although the poor author sees almost nothing as most are online sales (with sellers taking up to 60% which leaves little after the costs of production, publishing and distribution are taken into account). I'd really like to take a year to write another now, but without potential earnings it's impossible. Still a great comfort in these dark working days to know that two little lights burn brightly out there in the world...

Winter Walking

2010-01-29T14:35:00.006+01:00

This is not such a bad time of year to be walking in Brittany - suitably clothed and shod, of course. The Nantes-Brest canal towpath near my new abode is a reliable track in winter, although flooding can force the odd detour. But sadly it's amazing how many cars (strictly forbidden) are out for a scenic drive alongside the canal in Finistere.
Otherwise there are all those miles of converted railway tracks, tedious or alluring depending on the location. The disadvantage of both options is the paucity of long views, so I'm still more tempted by the coastal path (last Sunday was warmer and sunnier than August 2009) and inevitably the boggy paths of the Monts d'Arrée, now a little further away but close as ever to my heart.

A Duty of Care Charter for Brittany Tourism

2009-10-27T11:44:00.006+01:00

(Photo - Dol-de-Bretagne: Cathedral St-Samson)

Brittany could improve the quality of its tourism immeasurably by establishing a Duty of Care charter which all organisations and museums or attractions offering something for the public would have to sign up to. The first pledge would have to be TO HONOUR PUBLISHED OPENING HOURS. Too often people check websites and make long drives to visit places which are closed when they should be open. Tourists and residents must be able to rely on published information, and the commitment of service/attraction providers.

History is an effort

2009-10-09T17:55:00.009+02:00

In Quiberon this week for a few days research. I asked a pleasant woman in the tourist office at Plouharnel if she had anything historical on Quiberon and she told me the office in Quiberon itself would be able to provide what I wanted. So on I went with my travels, and explained to the woman in the correct Tourist Office that I was working on a guidebook, and asked for something about the history of the area. She said she had nothing. Nothing at all, I said with some surprise. No, for history you must go to a mediatheque or buy a book. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
In astonishment, I said this was the first tourist office I'd known with no detailed information about their area. She went into the back-room. I heard sounds of the photocopier and minutes later was presented with a detailed, illustrated historical guide. What a strange service!
Luckily I was in Vannes later in the week and the TO there provided their usual helpful and friendly support. They actually seem to like talking to visitors. What after all is the purpose of work in tourism? The Quiberon peninsula is a prime tourist location and full of interest - it deserves better.

Fabulous Fougères

2009-09-15T23:42:00.004+02:00

I'm spending a month near the Morbihan/Ille-et-Vilaine border for the new book and am rediscovering what a wonderful place eastern Brittany is. It's years since I toured the border castles, but they don't come more fabulous than Fougères, and I could happily have spent several days exploring the lower (medieval) and upper (18th century) streets as well. What is truly impressive from my professional point of view is the quality of the tourist literature and the superb modern presentation of information at the chateau, in harmonious contrast with the ancient structures. Certainly the building helps with its obliging discrete sections illustrating every phase of defensive development over the centuries, which lends itself to explanation, but they do things very well in this part of the world. Education and imagination - now there's a powerful combination.

sublime food

2009-08-01T19:51:00.005+02:00

My latest work commmitment involves an expense account for eating and sleeping in nice places. Found myself staying a night in Mur-de-Bretagne at the Auberge Grand Maison, which has a restaurant recently awarded a Michelin star. On arrival I was greeted cheerily by the chef himself, Christophe Le Fur, who carrried my bags to my room, chatting pleasantly. Not wanting to blow my whole trip's budget in one go I dined elsewhere (three courses for 10€50, plus coffee) but decided I deserved a lunch next day. Not so much lunch, in fact, as an eating experience!
After a slight accident involving a pristine white linen tablecloth and an amuse-bouche based on beetroot in a glass with a straw, I moved on to curried soup of moules, roasted fillet of cod on courgette spaghetti and mushrooms, and the perhaps unoriginal but totally moreish verrine of strawberries and other melting delights. Almost my favourite part of the meal was the skewer bearing three small freshly baked rolls, seaweed, white and cereal bread. Apart from making notes about the food, most of my attention was absorbed by the dining-room staff - four young people of natural charm and total professionalism. The creation of a team like that says much for the skills and personalities of Christophe and his wife Mireille. The meal almost made me cry with delight, and the hotel part was pretty near perfect - they can't do anything about the road outside.
Total cost of this extravagant 24 hours - 89€! Only in France......

Poem

2009-06-06T22:31:00.001+02:00

Remember me in rainbows
So your thoughts divide in coloured strands:
My orange mood
Those soft green kisses
And all the indigo we shared.
In a hollow place where we made layers
You took the sky to wrap around me;
A single drop of leafy rain
And I was drenched in you.

© D.Osmath

A long way from Paris to Guingamp

2009-05-10T22:39:00.008+02:00

Guingamp triumphed over Rennes in the French Cup Final last night - two Breton teams producing flowing football and three fine goals in the Paris stadium. Rennes is the capital of Brittany and their side considerably more than a notch above lowly Guingamp, but the constant references to the latter as a 'petite village' finally made me hit the mute button.
Thomas Adolphus Trollope, brother of the famous Anthony, visited the 'pretty agreeable little town' of Guingamp in 1840, finding it cleaner, better built and 'altogether pleasanter than St-Brieuc'. Still the case, many would say. In those days the population was 6000, so even then considerably larger than a petite village, a description more befitting my own bourg of 1165 hardy souls in the Monts d'Arrée.
Are people in Paris still so blinkered and conditioned by stereotypes that they imagine anywhere west of Rennes to be full of incomprehensible peasants in clogs? OK, some places maybe (thank goodness), but Guingamp is currently a town of about 25,000 inhabitants. And the origin of the word gingham, by the way.

headache

2009-04-19T12:09:00.004+02:00

Just spent two days in Quimperlé preparing for an event next week and looking at chapels for the Tro Breiz project (http://www.trobreizproject.blogspot.com/). In the 11th century crypt of the Abbey of Saint-Croix is the tomb of St Gurloes, a holy man providing useful everyday kind of services: curing headache and backache a speciality, just crawl underneath or stick your head in the appropriate hole. They are all so practical, these Breton saints. In the background you can just about see a capital with four open pillars at the top for tying up mad people to benefit from a few hours in the vicinity of sanctity. But never a sniff of help for the broken heart. That's religion for you.

A chink of light

2009-03-25T23:06:00.003+01:00

Much heartened by listening to Michael Dodds (new head of tourism in Brittany) speak in Carhaix last night. The mix of focus and vision he outlined should have breathed some life into those of the large audience with ears to hear. Quite a few came simply to make their own mini-speeches and then leave, an indication of the narrowness of perspective that bedevils the whole show. Diversity is certainly the essence of Brittany's strength in the competitive tourist market, as I have been preaching for the last seven years - in fact it's conceivable that every person involved in every level of promotion and services here might agree on that. The problem is that that very diversity engenders a fragmentation of vision and a tightening of self-interest and parochial values that ties the whole parcel up in impossible knots rather than unwrapping it seductively for the punters. If people would only stop harping on about what they have and concentrate on what they can give, we might all get somewhere. The common ground or at the very least a modular connection between divergent interests is worth striving for.
I'm starting to work on a Food in Finistere themed trail which will promote by linkage a wide gamut of cultivators and producers: whether I can stir the least interest in relevant tourist organisations remains to be seen. But personally I felt yesterday that at last all my efforts might be reflected on a bigger stage by much more influential people, and that maybe I was in the right place at the right time after all.

Missionary zeal in Brittany

2009-03-11T16:35:00.010+01:00

After the tedium of the Council of Trent and the furor of the Wars of Religion, Brittany was well set for a religious revivial in the early 17th century. The magnificence of the parish closes and the outbreak of convent-building (Ursulines, Carmelites, Calveriennes, etc.) are well-known, but less attention is given to the widespread activities of missionaries in the region.
Michel le Nobletz from Plouguerneau, called the Lunatic priest for his eccentric delivery and semi-masochistic lifestyle, devised the use of "taolennou", pictorial maps of faith painted on sheep-skin or sometimes wood, to reach the minds and souls of illiterate Breton peasants who had wandered from the Catholic fold or never been rounded up in the first place. These proved remarkably effective and his relentless efforts over many years throughout Basse Bretagne did much to regenerate the religious devotion which has somehow wormed its way into the fabric of Breton identity.
But the man he chose to succeed him in this noble work, Julien Maunoir, came from eastern Brittany, north of Rennes, and therefore was burdened by the fundamental handicap of not speaking Breton. Fortunately God intervened at this point, and as Maunoir prayed in the Chapel of Ty Mamm Doué, an angel appeared and touched him on the lips, giving him the gift of that bythronic language. A huge painting in Quimper cathedral records this miracle.
I can just picture the scene as he toiled away by candlelight each night with a grammar and the help of a real Breton servant. 'No, your reverence, I really think you must labour a little more at those mutated consonants before we announce the angel's visit.'
One can't help admiring those tricksy Jesuits.....

Chateau de Kerjean

2009-03-04T18:26:00.006+01:00

Currently working on promotion for this chateau, which deserves attention not only for the architectural and historical interest, but also for the fine presentation of the site. They have a creditable and clear vision of integration between the essential value of the building itself and its use as a context for presentation: excellent exhibitions, shows, performances, etc.

The new offering for 2009 looks at festivities and celebrations from the Renaissance, promising fun and lively information in a carefully staged setting. Rites of passage, religious festivals, tournaments and Carnival all lend their colours, lights, sounds and tastes to this highly recommended exhibition, which opens on March 27 and continues until November 8th.

Snow in the wild west

2009-02-03T11:00:00.005+01:00

The lane by my house, playful dogs, plus the main hamlet across the fields.

Saints and stone boats

2009-01-28T10:50:00.006+01:00

The earliest saints are said to have arrived on the shores of western Brittany in stone boats. A simple confusion of Latin cumba (coracle type boat) and old Breton koumm (a valley and therefore, trough)? Above, St Budoc rides the waves near Porspoder in his trough. It occurs to me that this rich vein has not yet been exploited by garden gnome manufacturers.

Hell

2009-01-20T16:35:00.003+01:00

I am increasingly fascintated by the iconography of Catholicism in Basse Bretagne. Tomorrow I'm taking a group to some of the best of the parish closes in northern Finistere. Above is a scene from the extraordinary calvaire at Guimiliau. It shows the naked figure of Katel Gollet (Katherine the Witless) ensnared by demons and drawn into the gaping monster mouth of Hell for her sins. Which were? An over fondness for dancing.

domini cani

2009-01-18T12:46:00.002+01:00

Enclos paroissial

2009-01-05T04:55:00.007+01:00

The parish close is a phenomenon mostly concentrated in northern Finistere, and largely the result of an influx of wealth from the linen trade with England. The elaborate, often theatrical, architectural form also became a kind of competitive sport as villages vied with one another for the most flamboyant display. The essential elements of church, sacristy, triumphal arch, calvary and ossuary (some still containing bones) were contained within a precinct wall to keep out wandering animals and mark the territory of the dead. Most extraordinary element was the calvaire, artistically educational, designed to teach the story of life, death and resurrection in a sophisticated granite cartoon strip often containing dozens of scenes and hundreds of finely drawn figures.

hydro phobia

2008-12-16T17:54:00.011+01:00

Today was the first outing for my superb new walking boots, which arrived yesterday after a nightmare of searching, ordering, being told that 'in stock' actually means arriving in February, or that my feet are unreasonably small and therefore not 'normally' catered for. England is clearly increasingly full of cart-horses. Thanks to the efficient and good-humoured staff at Cave and Crag (http://www.cave-crag.co.uk/ - thanks, Dave :-)) who rushed out a pair within hours of my plea, the great day is here and what a walk I had on the soupy, sloppy December moors, with dry and warm feet.

I have come back to my all-time favourite, the Hi Tec light-weight range - best on the market imo - by buying the new Altitude Ion Mask boots, excruciatingly called 'a breakthrough in surface enhancement'. Using a magnifying glass to check out details on the label of this 'quantum leap in footwear technology' I discover that the boots are not only waterproof but also hydro phobic - with the many problems water is already facing all over the world, I hope environmentalists will act quickly to nip this alarming new phenomenon in the bud.

Sarkozy & Breton reunification

2008-12-04T13:53:00.006+01:00

At the congress of French mayors in Nantes, Nicolas Sarkozy raises the reunification issue, apparently in a light-hearted aside, but he is too politically astute - notable lapse in marrying Carla Bruni notwithstanding - to draw attention where he does not relish the spotlight falling. His pre-election contemptuous dismissal of Bretons might yet have a worthwhile payoff.
Nantes was the ducal capital of Brittany from the 10th century, finally severed from its body by the Vichy government in 1941 and enshrined as head of the new region Loire Atlantique in 1957. Symbolic and historical significance aside, the economic repercussions of losing Brittany's main industrial concentration overnight were severe, despite later investment in the four remaining departments, Finistere, Cotes du Nord (now more seductively titled Cotes d'Armor, but not d'Armour as many British incomers call it), Morbihan and Ille-et-Vilaine.
B5 (the 'true' Brittany of 5 departments) is a rallying cry by the re-unifcationists. Good luck to them, even if it is necessary to get into bed with the likes of Sarkozy to achieve their end. It is after all an act of peculiar cultural barbarism to severe a capital city from its region. One of the many reasons for lauding the patrimoine of the Nantes-Brest canal is that this old waterway remains a physical link between the two parts of historic Brittany. You can read all about this in my latest book, Crossing Brittany.....................

Monday's Megaliths - Carnac

2008-12-01T18:24:00.005+01:00

Back in Brittany, I spent a day at Carnac with my good friend Jane Brayne, artist and archaeological illustrator (from Meet the Ancestors fame, and also well-known for her work on Avebury and Stonehenge) who has dashed back with me from England to do some preparation for an exciting new project. As the weather was appalling, we were the only people on site: I had forgotten how moving the experience can be without the hordes.

My new book is out

2008-11-28T22:17:00.004+01:00

Crossing Brittany is finally out! Fingers crossed for pre-Xmas sales :-)

England

2008-11-20T19:00:00.002+01:00

Making a rare visit to England, and most vivid impressions so far are of stunning Somerset landscapes and the appalling volume of rural traffic. It's rather refreshing to have reached London in my travels and at last be able to drive as nature intended.

Experiencing history

2008-11-11T09:52:00.004+01:00

I used to think that the attraction of the past was its contrast with the present world, the separation of time and custom lending an aura of excited speculation. This lure of the evident spiced by fantasy was in the castle's turret stair and the lie of standing stones. After years of writing guidebooks and escorting visits of historical interest, I see rather that for most the thrill is in connection. Provide a link, however tenuous, to the contemporary world or to the particular historical framework of the audience, and the appetite of the imagination cranks up mightily. Here in Brittany so much is lost for the British audience by tedious and tortuous exposition of French history which might as well be an account of warfaring factions in Lord of the Rings. A sea skirmish off the coast west of Brest doesn't do a lot to pull in the punters until mention of the magic words 'Mary Rose' - then watch the line of craning necks on the cliff-top - even though there is nothing to see but the skittish Atlantic - and hear the avid speculations about wind-speed and turning circles for 16th century craft.
Brittany is a special case in this respect: the connections between Britons and Bretons are all-pervasive. Hence my chosen structure for the Britons in Brittany book: conflict, commerce, culture. From Ben Nicholson's modernist renderings of the Carnac megaliths to the 17th century export of cloth from Locronan via Pouldavid (hence the English name Powell Davies for the fabric!) to the allied bombing of the Morlaix viaduct that managed to wipe out a school full of children. What tales there are to tell, and what a trail to follow around some of the most interesting places France has to offer.

website blues

2008-11-07T19:34:00.005+01:00

My website has been out of action for nearly four weeks now. The hosting company Another Light took it down for non-payment of renewal. Unfortunately they sent the reminder, not to the current email they have in their records, but to a very old address. They have not responded to any of dozens of messages requesting the code without which I cannot move the site to another host. They are obliged to give me this, even if they can make me forfeit a year's rental. But nothing. And the next stage, an appeal to the registrar of sites has also remained completely unanswered for two weeks. Therefore not only have I lost my professional showcase, but I am unable to do anything to get it back. My only option is to change the domain name, which I am very reluctant to do, and not only because of all the stationery to be changed and people to inform, etc. I cannot wait until the resolution of a long appeals process - that is, if anyone ever takes policing of the net seriously for long enough to write me a message.

OK, after a weekend of thought, I give in. New site - (holding pages for the moment) - at http://www.wendymewes.com/

Rennes

2008-11-06T18:13:00.012+01:00

Two days in Rennes, capital of modern Brittany, this week. It's not a city I feel especially at ease in, finding it less engaging than Nantes or Vannes, despite the breath-taking range of innovative architectural concepts. Religious buildings are varied and omni-present, likewise medieval colombage houses of many colours, but Rennes is hard to get hold of in a single grasp, slipping and shimmying away as the visitor grapples with each of its many salient parts.

I am pleased to meet up again with Pierrick Gavaud from Randobreizh to discuss my association's Days of Discovery event for September 2009, and with Michael Dodds, new head of tourism, who is generous with his time and attention to the possibilities of my Britons in Brittany project.

Saint Tex

2008-11-01T13:12:00.003+01:00

Today is Tex's first birthday. What a fine little dog he has turned out to be!

As it is All Saints Day, I also honour with many tears my beloved lurcher Rufus, light of my life, who died last December, lovingly missed each and every day.

Michelin Green Guide to Brittany

2008-10-29T22:52:00.006+01:00

I'm pleased to hear that two of my books are to be in the recommended reading list of the new edition of this prestigious book. The selection is interesting: Discovering the History of Brittany is an obvious choice, but the other is The Five of Cups, my novel set in the Monts d'Arrée. In fact, however, only the other day I had a letter from a reader saying she was planning a holiday in Brittany on the strength of the descriptions and atmosphere in that tale, so perhaps it's not strange after all. I always thought the cover would make a good tourist poster.

Day 26

2008-10-24T09:45:00.009+02:00

Day 26 on my 28-day detox régime. So no meat, fish, dairy, eggs, wheat, tea, coffee, alcohol or sugar for the duration. There's no limit on eating, only on what is eaten. It is sadly true that this does make a hugely positive difference to how one thinks, feels, moves and sleeps. But too limited and boring to adopt for life - my once a year stint is quite enough. This time I've been very good, with few lapses, just the odd cup of black coffee or sip of diet coke when cooking (I use the term loosely, because endless chopping of vegetables and fruit lacks creativity after the first five days). Not quite! A friend was buying me lunch on a shopping trip to Ikea this week and in the absence of anything totally suitable, I had one slice of smoked salmon with my rye bread and lettuce leaves. She had meat balls, chips and chocolate-almond cake. But the point is that because of this régime, I had plenty of energy for four hours in Ikea, whereas usually I would have wanted to sit down after twenty minutes or eat cake or hit people in those circumstances.

Monday's Megalith

2008-10-20T16:43:00.007+02:00

This neolithic allée couverte at Mougau Bihan dates from c3000. It has an entrance in the north, a corridor to the burial chamber (without significant distinction) and a small separate cella (front in photo). The giant roof slabs would once have been covered with earth and grass. Inside are carvings of paddles/threshing implements, goddess breasts (raised pairs of dots - I can't really believe in that interpretation) and a hafted axe on the wall of the chamber. The latter, like so many other 'pagan' monuments in Brittany, was daubed with Catholic symbols in flourescent pink paint soon after the new pope's anti-pagan speech. Truly enlightened behaviour.
Theories of an inverted boat-shape for such tombs may explain the oar or paddle type carvings, as necessary props for the soul's final progress across water, presumably accompanied by a psychopomp.

new novel

2008-10-16T21:31:00.004+02:00

Progress on the new novel Walking for the Broken-Hearted is following my habitual and irritating pattern. Something triggers the first thought - in this case an incident related to me by friends - and I know by writer's instinct that conception has taken place. I try and fail to get things written down. The experience is still theirs and I have a long wait for the germination process that brings it into my consciousness and makes it mine. Usually this means several months of nothing at all or the odd desperate thought that leads nowhere. Even co-incidental visits to the setting of the opening scene made no impression, and I started to wonder if maybe I was wrong this time. But yesterday, whilst walking on the moors and thinking about something completely different, I suddenly got the measure of the story, the characters and several clear sequences. And on return to the house I managed to write for half an hour - so alea iacta est and all that.

Vannes

2008-10-11T23:17:00.004+02:00

Vannes is, or was, the least familiar of Breton cities to me, so I was pleased to spend two days there this week. It lacks the university buzz of Rennes and Nantes, and is a softer, more restrained member of the same family. I liked it very much, even though the archaeology museum closed for the winter last week. Why? Does a beautiful place like Vannes have no visitors from October to April? And if not, why not - because the best places are closed maybe?

Monday's megalith

2008-10-08T22:14:00.007+02:00

On Monday I fulfilled a long held desire to see the neolithic cairn with its famous carvings lining the passage and single burial chamber on the tiny island of Gavrinis. Of course, no photographs allowed inside, but it was an extraordinary experience. Normally I hate enclosed spaces but there was a palpable calm and sense of peaceful rest in the chamber that made me reluctant to leave. The forceful carvings enhance the liveliness of departure.

Ergué Gaberic

2008-10-04T10:22:00.006+02:00

On the trail of Dallam organs for the Briton/Breton links book yesterday. The Dallam family, having left England to escape the puritan revolution in the mid 17th century, for several generations settled in Finistere and made fine organs for some of the most attractive churches. That at Ergue Gaberic near Quimper is one of the most original (i.e. least restored) and still in working order: renowned English musician Robert Woolley gave a concert there.
Finding the church closed I was sent from the mairie to the maison du patrimoine where a delightful and most helpful young woman, Gael Martin, got the key from the rector and let me have a good look inside the church. Pity my camera flash failed to function properly :-(

She was very interested in my project - it would certainly be of great benefit to small places like Ergué Gaberic which have notable heritage features to attract visitors through linkage.

fides restituta

2008-10-02T17:53:00.001+02:00

Thank you, Mr Dodds :-)

waiting for a reply from Brittany tourism

2008-09-30T19:44:00.005+02:00

I'm waiting for a reply from Brittany tourism's new head honcho, who happens to be English. I wrote three weeks ago asking for a late October meeting about my Briton/Breton historical trail project. No reply. Yesterday morning I sent another polite message and reprinted the first in case it was never forwarded to him. Now I wait and hope and wait and .........
My reply rate from Breton tourist boards/organisations/officials over the years has been less than 25%, but I remain absurdly optimistic and put all my faith in Mr Michael Dodds. After all, why wouldn't he be interested in such a project?

Quimper

2008-09-28T16:10:00.013+02:00

This small city, capital of Finistere and the Cornouaille region, has gradually gnawed its way into my heart after our lukewarm first meeting six years ago. It has its quirks in addition to the much-pictured cobbled medieval streets and maisons à pan de bois. The walled medieval ville close was in fact unusually the preserve of the bishop, whilst the duke of Brittany had to content himself with the Terre au Duc, west of the Steir. Each had their own essentials: mills, fishponds, markets and seats of justice. But Quimper has always been a place of clerics, once awash with Franciscans, Jesuits and convents of every persuasion. Standing on the old rempart above the paradisical Jardin de Retraite, the huge Jesuit chapel dwarfs the fortifications that failed to protect this little settlement in the Wars of Succession and Religion. The luminous cathedral is renowned for its crooked axis of choir (13th century) and nave (15th century). Does this symbolically reflect the droop of Jesus' head on the cross? No: some idiot built the bishop's palace alongside inbetween times and there was nowhere else to go. The gleaming spires with their lofty statue of legendary founder King Gradlon are 19th century add-ons.
But if it's symbolism you want: the Max Jacob passerelle, augurated in 1994 for the 150th anniversary of his death in the camp at Drancy, stands almost between the two buildings designed by loathsome Breton nationalist and one time architect Olier Mordrel (born Olivier in Paris, Corsican mother, a late learner of Breton), who was condemned to death as a traitor after the war, and hid out in Argentina before returning to Paris and the same repulsive rhetoric in the 1970s.
The name Quimper means 'confluence' and the fluvial trio of Odet, Steir and Frout has led to some merry flooding, as recently as 2000 when plaques marking the water's highest point suggest that I would have been swimming along the rue René Madec (named for one of lowly Quimperois origins, whose private army in 18th century India won him the title of nabob).

cross in Brittany

2008-09-26T22:52:00.004+02:00

Sad news. The Long Thought is no more. The title, that is. Whilst I understand the marketing and promotional reasons for this change, for me it means giving up the true name of my new book. It is now to be Crossing Brittany - well, yipppeeeedoo :-(

Monday's Megalith

2008-09-22T16:47:00.004+02:00

Part of the Neocropolis at Menez Dregan. There is also a paleolithic site on the cliffside just below.

American Historical Trail?

2008-09-21T11:43:00.000+02:00

And I've also got plenty of ideas for an American tourist trail in Brittany. Apart from the obvious WWI & WWII sites, there's Benjamin Franklin's visit in 1776 (before he was president), when he landed at Auray's exceptionally picturesque port of St-Goustan; Fulton's testing of the first submarine at Camaret in 1801; Jack Kerouac's family origins at Huelgoat - all fortunately highly attractive places to visit. And there are many more I'll keep to myself for now.

Briton/Breton Historical Trail (1)

2008-09-17T11:20:00.001+02:00

The trail is developing well. I've just spent a day on the island of Molène, in the Atlantic between the continent and Ouessant (Ushant). It's a small place of 100 hectares and only 250 regular year-round inhabitants. It makes a pleasant change from the Celtic saints and Hundred Years War incidents to be researching an event, albeit a tragic one, from the Victorian era for my Briton/Breton historical trail. On June 16, 1896 the steamship Drummond Castle hit the rocks (Pierres Vertes) west of Molène on the last night of its voyage from South Africa to England, and sank within minutes. Fishermen saved two sailors and one passenger early the next morning, but the other 244 people on board perished. 29 of the bodies recovered were buried in a special corner of the churchyard on Molène. The islanders received thanks both practical and spiritual, with Queen Victoria putting up the cost of a cistern, which still stands near the church, to relieve the perennial freshwater problem, and the Guild of All Souls sending a jewelled chalice and plate to the priest in acknowledgement of the Christian burials accorded to the victims.

in praise of the pringle

2008-09-08T10:41:00.000+02:00

I am going through an obsessive phase of Pringles. I bought my first tube on impulse a year ago in a little shop in the Monts d'Arrée as I drove back from Quimper. I have a strange history with the crisp: as a child I used to save up and buy small cardboard boxes of Chipples salted potato sticks from an old-fashioned grocer's shop in the Gloucestershire village where I grew up. I always ate these secretly in my room: comfort food and an a early type of protection ritual. When they stopped making them, I never made the step to that poor substitute for the potato stick, the common and ubiquitous crisp. As an adult in London I discovered that M&S had the goods, but in large packets so that the salt intake meant borderline hospitalisation if eaten all in one go (and how else could they be eaten?). In Somerset I had a similar relationship with tesco potato sticks, but all this was in my pre-thyroid days and once that hereditary menace emerged I gave up such indulgence.
So here in France where crisps are foolishly called chips and so loaded with salt that wrinkles appear as you eat, there has been nothing comparable to tempt me until now. What is it about Pringles? Partly the perfect light texture and seasoning, partly the challenge of the shape: it tantalises the mouth and requires, for the greatest oral satisfaction, two bites, the first of which must be clean enough to avoid shattering the second half into fragments. Then there is the effort required to plunge one's hand further and further into the tube, and the test of how many days you can make one lot last. I can't do better than four. But the whole process has all the fulfilment of a ritual beyond physical gratification.

sunday afternoon

2008-09-07T16:27:00.000+02:00

How I hate Sunday afternoons and their inherent purposelessness. How do normal people manage to pass those world-without-end hours? I spend all week walking and reading and writing - what else is there to do? Today I can't seem to find any task to lift the dreary energy so I try to match it by using time to delete hundreds of photos from the laptop as the new XP update tells me I am running out of space. Several thousand pictures of the Nantes-Brest canal have just flashed past my eyes, reviving old passions, but it seems a fitting moment to get rid of many now that my active love-affair with the canal is very nearly over - although I hope we will remain good friends.
The puppy, from his bed on the windowsill next to my desk, has just been sick in spectacular fashion all over the final maunscript changes to The Long Thought and over my diary. Whatever I was going to do in October has lost its appeal, and I will need another updated manuscript, but hey, I have something purposeful to do at last - pass the mop and bucket, Alice.

covers up

2008-09-02T12:15:00.000+02:00

The cover of The Long Thought is evolving slowly. These are the front-runners.

Megaliths & the Monts d'Arrée

2008-09-01T22:59:00.000+02:00

Preparing for an association event next week, and had a good walk on the Landes de Cragou, where Dartmoor ponies graze and buzzards wheel. The theme is both landscape and the earliest traces of man.

viaduct views

2008-08-29T20:16:00.000+02:00

Morlaix is famous for its viaduct, built in the early 1860s to carry the Paris/Brest railway. It was an obvious target for allied bombing in WWII to break the Germans' vital communication line. A raid in January 1943 succeeded in knocking out part of one arch, as well as destroying a primary school, killing all the pupils and a teacher. 12 days later the Germans had the line repaired.

cover pic

2008-08-28T17:34:00.001+02:00

The Long Thought will going to press in a month or so and I'm starting work on the covers. I'm torn between symbolic wintry pictures or June splendour showing the canal at its best. This picture is my current favourite: it also connects to the opening scene of my new novel, which would be a neat transitional image. The infinite variety of the Nantes-Brest canal requires a whole book of photos to do it justice, but I've decided to do without pictures in the text, which can stand up for itself well enough, I hope.

bloody journalists - Ouest France

2008-08-27T11:47:00.001+02:00

A reporter from Ouest-France, the main daily paper here, accompanied a Morlaix town walk I guided last week. He was a young man who admitted he did not know the history of the town. All the more reason for him to listen? Not a chance, he's a journalist after all. The next day he sent me a PDF of the article - full of errors and misquotations, but I expect that after long experience of being interviewed by the French press. You accept these colourful diversions from the truth in return for publicity.
I was just about to file the article and think no more of it when I spotted the photo caption: there I am, on the bandstand in the Place des Otages, explaining the tragic fate of 60 Morlaisiens taken hostage and then transported like cattle to the death camps in reprisal for a resistance attack. What does the caption say - that I am describing the hostages being SHOT. Now not only is this a nasty slur on my reputation, but it is pretty unpleasant for the families of these poor men - Morlaix is a small town and this terrible event features large in many memories.
So I send an email at once to the journalist, Morgan Bourven. No reply. After brooding all weekend, I write a letter of complaint to the editors. Shortly after the journalist sends a brief email of apology and says a retraction will be published in the paper the following day. It isn't, so I write to him again, this time in anger. He replies blaming a secretarial error (!) and promises the text will appear tomorrow. Half an hour later he sends me the text to see if I approve. Frankly I think it is very little, but it includes a public apology to me as well as a correction of the facts, so I say OK.
Today, the retraction appears, but lo and behold! the apology has mysteriously disappeared and only a bald statement of fact remains. Anyone reading without significant attention might still have the impression that the mistake was mine. I am seriously upset by this - by their stupidity and ignorance in the first place (no-one in the Morlaix office of Ouest-France noticed such an appalling error before the paper went to press) and then the apparent play-acting that followed.
I think the best thing to do with Ouest-France in future is to stuff it in my walking boots to help the drying process.

POSTSCRIPT I have just received a message from the journalist saying that it is an 'apology to history not to Wendy Mewes' - there you are, folks - NOW they care about history, but they don't give a shit about my professional reputation. If I was French it would be a very different story.............. but at least this shows them in their true light.

ADDENDUM: after reading Laurent's comment and receiving another message from the journalist, let me say that he, Morgan Bourven, tried to do the right thing but was overruled by more senior staff who did not feel I was important enough to merit an apology.

Portrait of the Young Dog

2008-08-18T21:50:00.000+02:00

Painted by animal artist Debs, here's my young chap Tex, now eight months old and of wide vocabulary.

on the trail

2008-08-18T21:09:00.000+02:00

Personal reasons have kept me off-blog lately, but I'm getting going again this month. Starting work on a new novel, Walking for the Broken-Hearted, which in its embryonic state appears to be a strange amalgam of fiction and reality. Also working on the development of an historic trail throughout Brittany, tracing the Briton/Breton connection over centuries. This is essentially a tourist project, concentrating on places and remains, but I expect a guidebook will accompany the basic leaflet information.

Otherwise BWs association business takes much of my time, with new walks to research and a programme of events for the autumn/winter to plan. There can't be many Morris dancing workshops on offer this December in Brittany. Plus the total reworking of the Brittany Walks website, which is going to be a big step forward for anglophone walking over here, and a major task for me.

incapacity

2008-04-26T11:34:00.000+02:00

Nearly two months ago I knocked my hand awkwardly against the car. A minor irritation, not especially painful at the time. Now that hand is almost useless. My old bugbear of arthritis has set into the virgin joints with the grip of a terrier. After twelve years free of the crippling pains that ruined my thirties when walking was often too painful to contemplate, the nightmare returns with a vengeance. It is my left hand and I am left-handed: writing, cooking, any normal everyday action is now an ordeal. Perhaps I should be thankful that the savage pain in one finger that kept me awake night after night has at least faded to a constant dull ache - but the slightest pressure on the hand brings out that blast of agony only too quickly. My world has shrunk swiftly into limited actions and strategic movement, a way of living I thought was well buried in my past. Funny how quickly the old patterns return - I find myself instinctively guarding my knees and feet from potential trauma and moving with the gait of a cripple that once came so naturally. And yet there is nothing wrong with those joints. Yet.

puppy brain

2008-01-13T11:53:00.001+01:00

Never, never try finishing a manuscript with a new puppy in the house. I am exhausted and Tex is obliviously exuberant. My office is a mass of shredded cardboard and decimated broom twigs. As well as the coastal book to complete by the end of January, I have a talk to give next week in central Brittany and cycle routes in pays bigouden to prepare for an English travel company. Actually, I'm quite enjoying it all, although whether I'll be able to remember details of the Seven Years War or the history of the seaweed industry when questioned is quite another matter.

new puppy

2008-01-02T21:43:00.000+01:00

New puppy able to come home today.

Bonne année, etc

2008-01-02T21:29:00.000+01:00

2008 at last - I've been looking forward to it. This is a year of change.

Finally finished coastal book walking on December 31st, only two months behind schedule. Most of the text is written, however, so I'll still hope to bring it in on time. Have been distracted by doing some research work for a travel company and giving talks about this and that, as well as spending two weeks in England. For the first time since coming to live in France I enjoyed my trip back over the water, and had an excellent time in Glastonbury, Shropshire and London.

tarot competition win

2007-11-05T16:59:00.000+01:00

A highly original and exciting new deck - The Maroon Tarot - has recently been published (Majors only so far). What endears it to me especially is that it is a deck from Poland, a place with which I have great affinity. Part of the publicity is a competition for work inspired by one of the cards - I have had a win with this poem on the Judgement card shown above.

Judgement

I have heard this call before,
Deep in my green thoughts,
On lost nights
In a wrong place

I hid my face.
Past failures hold me
New fears enfold me
In the sadness of space.

Call me again

How high is wall?
How far is the fall?

Call me again

Is that the time?
The blast insists.
My mind resists
Such a step
From dark to light,
The distance of knowing.

But I’m on my way
I’m going

My spirit flies before.

©Wendy Mewes
2007

here's the cover

2007-10-27T18:23:00.000+02:00

never-ending coast

2007-10-26T15:36:00.000+02:00

Only about 130kms to go now to complete walking for the coastal book. Then the real work will begin. Have just endured a few days on the high cliffs of Cap Sizun and some very scary paths. Recent week staying in a mobile home north of Brest to complete the north-west section was more enjoyable - photos here from that trip. Fortifications from 17th to WWII for the Rade de Brest are extensive in this area - the Fort de Bertheaume in the picture is where Napoleon's commander was holed up by the English navy blocking the goulet.

spot the difference

2007-09-08T00:26:00.000+02:00

These two photos were taken this morning with two hours of each other on the same stretch of north Finistere coast. Such are the vagaries of this month's weather. In fact, it became so hot, I had to curtail my walk, which is a drag because an extra trip to the Coast of Pagans will now be required, and my schedule of walking and writing is pretty full up to the end of October. Also my knee is bad again, ominously. Too exhausted to swim even in these incredibly alluring waters. Not a great day then, but the sight of a man holding a poodle up by the tail and wiping its bottom with toilet paper made up for the negatives.

Pointe du Raz

2007-09-06T22:46:00.000+02:00

Coastal book coming on quite well now. Today I was at the Pointe du Raz - NOT the westernmost point of France despite the coachloads there believing it so. Too hot for comfortable walking today, but what scenery! From the point, the Ile de Sein was clearly visible, and not a breath of wind, a rarity on this blustery littoral.

walking the Finistere coast

2007-08-18T13:25:00.000+02:00

Spectacular walking for the new book on the Crozon peninsula this week, helped by hospitality and lifts from friends Les and David in Landevennec. Highlights include the remarkable éperon barré of Lostmarc'h and scenery around the Cap de la Chevre. How fortunate that I have just been asked to supply photos showing Brittany's exceptional scenery for a travel magazine. It is also timely for publicity for the Walking and Writing course I'm launching next year, using the landscape not only for inspiration but to also to develop techniques. More on that shortly.

brittany coast project

2007-08-11T21:29:00.000+02:00

New book now underway, despite The Long Thought not being finished. I am not happy about this coast of Brittany project. Walking by the sea is about relaxation for me, not work, and galloping dozens of kilometres in very hot sun or searching endlessly for missing waymarks does not make me glad to get up in the morning. I hate built-up stretches of coastline with hideous houses and beaches that don't allow dogs. But I do like sea smells and breezes. Have so far completed my Pays Bigouden chapter and am now getting to grips with the Crozon peninsula. Only 578 kms to go by January.

solstice

2007-06-21T12:50:00.000+02:00

Got up at five and was on the high hills before six. Rain, very strong winds but fantastic cloud formations racing about in shades of grey and black, minutely edged by gleaming rays. Didn't actually lay eyes on the sun itself, but pretty good all the same. Odd that the banks of clouds were moving in completely opposite directions and crossing over the misty lake. OK, year is winding down now, everything inside....

pasta

2007-05-21T20:04:00.000+02:00

Tonight I made pasta (my favourite tubes) with smoked trout, turkey, bacon, vegetables and a sauce concocted from humous, strawberry vingar, apple jam, fresh pesto, etc. It was DELICIOUS. Now I am going to walk the dogs in the pouring rain and make up a banana cake recipe for tomorrow's group walk.

tarot

2007-05-14T09:20:00.000+02:00

Good day reading tarot at a fair in Cotes d'Armor yesterday. All the same, now that I am in the process of designing my new tarot website I can't help feeling that some sort of image and outlook re-think is needed. Is Star Tarot is a bit wimpy and new agey? Are hope and optimism really my keywords? Wouldn't something that more nearly defines my general attitude and reading style be better? OK, Kick-Arse Tarot it is then.

launch day

2007-05-11T10:59:00.000+02:00

Today is launch day (not literally I hope) for my Nantes-Brest canal guide, which is already selling VERY WELL :-) I am leading a walk from Glomel in Cotes d'Armor along the Grand Tranchée (over 3kms of canal cut almost by hand by prisoners in the 1820s in appalling conditions) various etangs and a pretty cross-country route to the Corong reservoir, built originally to feed this highest section (184m) of the whole canal, joining the Blavet and Aulne river valleys. Some press coverage has been set up, but the weather is looking decidely stormy so it's quite possible I shall be walking alone after a soggy photo with one local reporter.
The last month has been quite a struggle work-wise with the Long Thought proving annoyingly elusive, but preventing a clear mind for the next book, which I suppose, reluctantly, will be Brittany: Legends, Myths and Megaliths unless another publisher comes through for Brittany: the Islands, which is what my heart hankers for. Most letters I get ask about another work of fiction, but that's looking less and less likely. I can't face it as things are.

monts d'arree

2007-04-11T17:57:00.000+02:00

This is my everyday sort of walking terrain. I tore my calf muscle badly last weekend leaping up a rock just like this, and have been down to 5 kms a day this week. Bad news for training, but I HATE resting! Managed 12kms today and will regard myself as fit again for a long stint tomorrow.

Brest

2007-03-16T16:18:00.000+01:00

I've been taken to task once or twice for describing Brest as only of interest to 'those fond of post-war architecture, naval history and shopping' in my guidebook to Finistere. Over the years since that was published I haven't changed my mind, but I have re-evaluated the first two items (the third, never). Three things in the last fortnight have combined to bring Brest back to my attention and send it shooting up the list of favoured places. Firstly, a friend sent me articles written about Brittany by journalists around the world and several of these involved talking to people in Brest who gave good value about their city. Secondly, I was invited to a concert of 'schizophrenic jazz' by the duo Nosfell who are rapidly establishing a reputation in and outside France. It was held in an underground cabaret/bar venue, with several hundred young things leaping up and down in a haze of assorted smoky substances whilst the music thundered all around - fantastic 'night in the city' experience which buoyed me up for days (all that passive smoking doubtless). Lastly I went to the chateau yesterday, feeling that my canal journey must truly end in Brest even if the canal itself didn't. From the medieval towers, miraculously spared in the allied bombing that flattened the rest of the city, looking across the Rade and out along the Goulet, all that naval history finally came alive before my eyes and gave me what I hope will be a strong ending for The Long Thought. Thank you Brest.

canal film

2007-03-01T09:45:00.000+01:00

What is supposed to be a quiet time of recuperation after finishing a book has been a frantic whirl of activity. Lots of walking, tarot and website activity to be planned and carried out. This week have taken a group walk at Landevennec (ancient abbey pictured here), along the forest path edging the Rade de Brest - beautifully atmospheric in dripping grey weather, although the open country return route in driving rain was a bit of an ordeal. Kind friends Les and David who live locally provided tea and cakes to restore us all. Keeping up training in current weather is hard and my old left knee problems are exacerbated by the pervading dampness and quite a few slips (and the odd fall) on treacherous terrain.
Yesterday to Rennes by TGV to meet film director Brigitte Chevet, who has funding to make a film about walking the Nantes-Brest canal. She's a very interesting lady and we had a good talk about many aspects of my beloved waterway and its exceptional potential - and I may get a chance to talk about my book on camera. Better get on with writing it then.

Nantes-Brest Canal guide

2007-02-09T16:27:00.000+01:00

My canal guide finally finished and sent off by courier this afternoon, after six months of intensive (and lately stressful) work. Above is the first cover draft, but it's changed a bit since then. The book will be out in April. And now, after two years of research on the subject, I can finally get back to writing the serious book it's all been for :-)

detox

2007-01-23T11:50:00.000+01:00

Every year I do the Carol Vorderman detox diet at least once. No meat, fish, dairy, eggs, wheat, alcohol, tea, coffee, etc. for 28 days. Sadly, the hype is true - it works. After a few dodgy days, the mind clears, sleep is deep and restful, skin glows, eyes sharpen, energy levels soar, so it is all worthwhile. And it's not a food deprivation type diet - I eat whenever I'm hungry. Rye toast and honey, nuts and dried fruit, lentil pasta (non-wheat), humous in large quantities and SOUP of all kinds. I feel fantastic at the end, but have to wait for the right moment to begin. An awful lot of time is needed to cut up all the vegetables :-) This hasn't quite come yet in 2007 - it was snowing here this morning after all - but the urge is there, so it won't be long. Interesting to see how it suits my training.

old year/new year

2007-01-07T13:42:00.000+01:00

Catch up time. Thanks to all those who have sent kind messages to my website in the last month. And especially to K&S for the vodka. Happy 2007 to you all and to all my readers.
I'm hard pressed at the moment with end of January deadline for the canal guide, but it will be done. Had two trips in December, to Redon to see the Musée de la Batellerie directeur Charly Bayou and get another good look at the town, and then a few days in Nantes just before Yule. One more day out to Lac de Guerledan to double-check some new paths this week and get a couple of photos, then the draft text can be finished.
On the walking front, my ligament injury seems to be healed and I'm on the verge of committing to an epreuve in six months time which requires a walk of 83kms in 24 hours - i.e. you walk all night and all day. So beginning to train in earnest, and I hope to up my 10kms a day to 20 as soon as the wretched book is finished.
Otherwise - this looks set to be a big year for me. For good or ill, on va voir (plutot boire?).

Difficult times

2006-12-14T22:29:00.000+01:00

Difficult times - that's it.

soup

2006-11-13T18:03:00.000+01:00

Cheerful Monday morning making Moroccan soup with chickpeas, spinach, apricots, lemon, chili and cinnamon - so good I managed quite a long trek in heavy mist and drizzle up and over the high hills this afternoon. Perhaps not quite my daily 10kms, but not bad for a grim November day. Adequate preparation for smoked trout pasta later, I dare say.

witchfest review

2006-11-08T19:57:00.000+01:00

Back from the bizarre experience that was Witchfest. A great deal of concentration required not to stand on trailing cloaks or get wands up the nose. Interesting that the atmosphere was completely normal - no sense whatsoever of special energy or powerful focus - just too much shopping on hand, maybe? Having said that, I had a truly awesome experience of connection with an absent loved one in the shopping hall, and made one very happy purchase. Talks were embarrassingly basic and simplistic until the great Ronald Hutton took the stage and wowed several hundred people with his intellectual integrity and passionate commitment to the cause. And he was funny ...
Also met several people whom I've known well for years on the internet for the first time in the flesh, and was not disappointed. Dear friend Zoe especially :-) and my tarot reading colleagues from TABI. That was the best part of it all, prosaic human contact. What it lacked for me was, well, magic ...

witchfest

2006-11-02T20:21:00.000+01:00

Off to England early tomorrow for Witchfest International (in Croydon!)and then a few days with oldest and dearest friends. Just as well, I'm not doing any work at the moment ...

always judge a book by its cover

2006-10-26T15:27:00.000+02:00

A day of choosing photos, out of hundreds, for cover of new short canal guide which is due out in spring. This is in addition to The Long Thought - seems a good idea to get two books out of 18 months work :-) This whole cover business is so important, it pays to take the time. My Walking in Finistere cover took almost a month to decide, and I lost long arguments about the back cover pictures of Discovering the History of Brittany - the satisfaction of now clearly being right is not enough compensation either.

melacholy day

2006-10-22T12:33:00.000+02:00

I can't do better than Auden today. What misery.

Like love we don't know where or why,
Like love we can't compel or fly,
Like love we often weep,
Like love we seldom keep.

I'm writing a poem about éoliennes and feeling like shit.

ADDED: but the day got a whole lot better ....